How to choose and care for soldering iron tips
The soldering tip transfers heat from the heater to the joint - its shape, size and coating decide both solder quality and service life. This guide shows how to pick tips for SMD, through-hole parts and ground planes, and how to keep them working.
View soldering tipsWhich tip shape suits which component?
The shape decides how much heat the tip delivers to the joint. Rule of thumb: the larger the contact area between tip and joint, the faster and safer the heat transfer. A tip that is too small forces higher temperatures and slower work.
For most jobs, chisel and round tips are the first choice. Fine conical or pencil tips suit single SMD pads, while hoof and mini-wave tips excel at drag-soldering whole rows of pins.
How do size, temperature and heat transfer relate?
It is not the set temperature alone that matters, but the thermal power at the joint. A broad tip at 320‑350 °C delivers more energy than a thin needle at 400 °C. Needlessly high temperatures shorten tip life and oxidise the coating.
- Lead-free solder (SAC305, melts around 217 °C): tip temperature usually 350‑380 °C.
- Leaded solder (Sn60Pb40, around 183 °C): 300‑340 °C is enough.
- Ground planes and thick copper need a larger tip, not more degrees.
- Always keep the tip well tinned - bare metal transfers heat poorly.
- For production work, make sure the station has enough recovery power.
Why is the coating so important?
A soldering tip is not a plain copper rod. The highly conductive copper core is clad in an iron (Fe) layer that stops the copper dissolving into the solder. The actual soldering face is tinned, while the rest of the tip is chrome-plated and therefore solder-repellent.
Choose temperature, control behaviour and power for clean joints.
Read the guideHow do you care for tips to make them last?
Good care extends tip life from a few days to many weeks. The enemy is oxidation: once the tinned face turns grey and stops taking solder, heat transfer drops sharply.
- Re-tin the tip before resting it and after every joint.
- Clean with a damp sponge, or better a brass-wool cleaner.
- Keep the temperature as low as possible and use standby during breaks.
- Never let it glow dry - un-tinned, a tip oxidises in seconds.
- Revive oxidised tips with tip tinner paste, never by grinding.
- Leave a coat of solder on the tip when you finish for the day.
Frequently asked questions
Which tip for SMD components?
For single small pads use a fine conical or pencil tip; for pin rows on QFPs or ICs use a hoof or mini-wave tip for drag-soldering. Always pick the largest shape that still fits.
Why won't my new tip take solder?
It was most likely heated un-tinned and has oxidised. Tin it immediately with tinner paste or fresh solder at around 250 °C. Never use a file or abrasive, which destroys the iron layer.
Do I need it hotter for lead-free soldering?
Somewhat, usually 350‑380 °C instead of 300‑340 °C. But a large enough tip and a station with strong recovery power matter more than raw temperature.
How often should I replace a tip?
As long as the tinned face still takes solder and the shape is intact, keep using it. Replace it when the iron layer burns through, pits appear or the face is deformed.
Looking for the right soldering tip?
We stock chisel, conical, hoof and mini-wave tips for common soldering stations - all with a durable iron coating.
Durable coating
Iron layer protects the copper core from erosion.
Efficient heat
Optimised geometry for fast heat transfer.
Wide selection
All common shapes and sizes in stock.
Expert advice
Our specialists help you pick the right tip.